Monday, September 30, 2013

A Farmers Market in France

Some English country-towns grew up around their market sites.  In other words, what began as a crossroads or, even more simply, a convenient wide space in the road where people  congregated, soon grew into a town.  Cities used plazas in front of a church for a gathering place to exchange goods.  France took a more pro-active approach and constructed market spaces as early as the 14th century.

I visited such a site in Revel.  Today, Revel is a modern city of 8,000 about an hour’s drive southeast of Toulouse.  The ancient market building, built in 1342, still dominates the city and its social patterns.  A forest of wooden pillars holds up a wooden roof sheathed with clay tile.  A belfry with a large clock juts above the roof.  The building is completely open and the size of a small city block.  An arcade stretches along all four sides of the market plaza.  Small shops fill the ground floor; above are apartments and business offices.

On Saturday mornings for almost 700 years, traffic has been banned and a market convened under the 14th century roof and along the plaza streets.  Local farmers bring goat and sheep cheeses, artisanal breads, live chickens and guinea hens, seeds and started plants.  Local farmers take privileged places under the ancient roof, while large wholesalers from Toulouse or Perpignan set up tables in the street, sheltered only by colorful umbrellas.  Here farmers and vendors hawk their wares, rain or shine. 

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